Marseille - the city that greeted me with a delayed train, questionable hotel choices, and a distinct aroma of adventure. Let me take you on a rollercoaster ride through my 24-hour escapade in the heart of the French Riviera.
Spend a Day in Marseille in 5 minutes
The Unwelcoming Welcome
My introduction to Marseille wasn't exactly a red carpet affair. I had travelled from Barcelona by train and had a change in Nantes. What I didn't know was that there was a train strike in France and the connection I had booked was no longer running. So after nearly an hours wait in Nantes Nord train station, a very small train with 500 people crammed into it, rolled up and I with my suitcase and backpack, forced my way through the already annoyed passengers to what standing space I could get. Of course, the aircon wasn't working and it was 30 degrees C outside, so for the next hour, I along with 500 other people were cooking at gas mark 3 to Marseille.
Sweaty and fed up of my sauna on rails, we arrived in Marseille at around 5pm. The initial impression outside the station mirrored my sweaty discomfort – dirty streets, dodgy looking people just loitering, and the unmistakable fragrance of eau de public urinal. And to top it off, my hotel which was a 5 minute walk from the train station, looked rough with dirt and graffiti on its walls. The website photographer must be commended, as it looked really nice there. It was a Greet Accor hotel which I knew was budget but I was expecting it to be decent. It was sadly a bit meh, dated, the reception staff didn't look happy and it just didn't feel great to stay in. My room did have a decent bed, so I coped for 2 nights. The included breakfast they laid on was awful; sweaty meats and cheese out in the heat, pancakes which looked mouldy and the coffee was like processed coal. Marseille wasn't going well.
Marseille: The Unlikely Hero Emerges
Determined to see a different side of Marseille in the day I had, I decided to find a bus tour. Following my trusty Google Maps App, I walked down some more dirty streets and then arrived at the bus stop where suddenly, I was surrounded in nice looking buildings, clean streets and is that the port I see?
I hopped on the bus and after leaving 20 minutes later than planned, we set off and we arrived at the Port in minutes. The Port was packed with boat and yachts and the harbour was lined with cafes and restaurants, this was the Marseille I came to see. We passed Fort Saint-Nicolas, which overlooks the Port, but unfortunately it was closed when I was there. We passed the WW1 War memorial Monument Aux Morts Des Orients which is an amazing arch looking out to sea and then I soaked in the Mediterranean view in all its glory. This was definitely more like it.
Basilica of Notre-Dame of la Garde
The bus's next stop was Basilica of Notre-Dame of la Garde. A small church that sits on top of the Garde Hill, over looking the whole city and Port. Where the bus stops, it's a pilgrimage-like climb, but the panoramic views of Marseille, the Mediterranean, and the scattered islands unfolded before me like a breathtaking tapestry.
The basilica itself, a masterpiece of Romanesque-Byzantine architecture, exudes an air of reverence. Its golden statue of the Virgin Mary, gazing serenely over the city, adds a touch of ethereal grace. Once inside, the interior adorned with colourful mosaics and ex-votos creates a sense of tranquility, inviting visitors to reflect in the midst of such grandeur. It's a definite must see attraction when visiting Marseille.
Website: http://notredamedelagarde.fr/
Exploring Marseille's Port
Boarding the Tour Bus, it took me back to the Port and here I jumped off and went for a stroll. The grand buildings, with their elegant facades were from a time when this port greeted grand ships from all of the world. As I ambled along the sea wall, I couldn't help but marvel at the scenery and the sound of the Mediterranean waves crashing against the seawall.
I passed the very modern looking building which is Mucem, the main museum which is connected to Fort Saint-Jean, an old vs new fusion. This houses a collection of European and Mediterranean cultural information and is worth a look if you have some time.
Website: https://www.mucem.org/
Cathedral Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Majeure and Marseille's streets
From Mucem, the Cathedral Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Majeure was dominant on the horizon and I walked up to it to explore. Stepping into the Cathedral felt like traversing a portal through time. The echoes of history whispered from every arch and vault, revealing tales of a structure that has weathered the centuries. Built on the foundations of an ancient Roman basilica in the 12th century, this architectural marvel has withstood wars, renovations, and the passage of countless pilgrims. The majestic structure, with its Romanesque and Gothic influences, stands as a testament to Marseille's enduring spiritual legacy.
I then explored the streets and was pleasantly surprised about how the buildings all looked recently sandblasted and I loved how there were so many cafes and bistro's all competing for a tourists attention.
The Port Vieux Pavilion
Heading the Port is the historic Vieux Port Pavilion designed by the renowned architect Norman Foster. It is a harmonious blend of cutting-edge design and maritime tradition. Erected in 2013, this architectural masterpiece serves not only as a functional structure but also as a reflective canvas, allowing visitors to catch a glimpse of themselves amidst the picturesque surroundings. As you explore the Old Port, the Vieux Port Pavilion's mirrored surface becomes a playful mirror, offering a unique opportunity to wave at your own reflection while soaking in the coastal charm.
A Farewell, but not Goodbye
I did the final part of the bus your which took me to the Hôtel de Ville, the Orange Vélodrome where Marseille play football and a look at the statue of David, a replica of the famous statue in Florence, which is on a roundabout for some reason.
If you have time, walk along either Rue Saint-Ferréol or Rue de Rome for some great shopping, all the brand names are there.
As the sun set on my trip to Marseille, I couldn't help but be impressed. A lively port, breathtaking views, and architecture that is unmistakably French – Marseille had won me over. A perfect long weekend getaway, especially for those on a tight schedule, made all the more enjoyable by a refreshing sea breeze.
It should be said that Marseille does have a reputation for crime, but that comes with any big city and I didn’t feel in at any danger at any time, when I was there, although you should always be careful. There are a few tourist sites to see such as the Notre Dame, the Muscem and Port but I would say Marseille is more a place to relax by the sea and enjoy some Moules Marinière and a glass of Pastis.
Marseille Tourist information and online resources
For further assistance during your visit, the Marseille Tourist Office is a valuable resource, providing information about the city's attractions, transportation, and more.
Address: Office of Tourism & Conventions, 11 La Canebière, 13001 Marseille, France
Map Location: View on Google Maps
Website: https://www.marseille-tourisme.com/en/
Closest landmark: Vieux Port
Opening times: Monday to Sunday: 9.00am to 6.00pm
Marseille Transport
I mostly walked while I was in Marseille, but I do suggest going on the Bus Tour, as it will take you to places which are a bit far out such as Notre Dame.
Metro
Navigating the vibrant city of Marseille is a breeze, thanks to its efficient metro system. The Marseille Metro, with its well-connected network, offers a convenient way to explore the city's diverse neighbourhoods and cultural hotspots. Whether you're heading to the historic Old Port or the bustling markets of Noailles, the metro provides a quick and reliable mode of transportation. For up-to-date information on routes, schedules, and ticket details, be sure to check the official Marseille Metro website.
Website: https://www.rtm.fr/
Buses & TRAMS
Marseille's bus and tram service is a lifeline for locals and a convenient option for visitors looking to traverse the city's enchanting landscapes. With an extensive network connecting neighbourhoods, landmarks, and cultural hubs, the bus and tram service offers a flexible and affordable means of exploration. Whether you're planning a visit to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde or seeking the vibrant energy of the Cours Julien district, the buses and trams in Marseille provide a window into the city's soul. For detailed routes, schedules, and ticket information visit their website.
Website: https://www.rtm.fr/
COLORBUS
The Marseille Colorbüs is a vibrant and convenient way to explore the stunning cityscape of Marseille. Operating as a hop-on-hop-off service, the Colorbüs allows visitors to tailor their sightseeing experience by choosing between the red and blue lines, each offering a unique route through the city's iconic landmarks and attractions. With informative audio guides available in multiple languages, passengers can immerse themselves in Marseille's rich history and culture as they traverse the city. The Colorbüs is not just a mode of transportation; it's an interactive journey that provides flexibility for exploration, making it an ideal choice for those looking to discover Marseille at their own pace.
Website: https://www.colorbus.fr/en/
Travel cards
Discover the essence of Marseille with the Marseille CityPass—a perfect companion for solo adventures or outings with family and friends. This all-inclusive package, available for 24, 48, or 72 hours, provides unlimited access to public transportation, including buses, metros, and trams. Explore renowned museums such as the Mucem and Regards de Provence, enjoy a tour on a small tourist train, experience a virtual 4D journey in a Mehari car at the Museum of Aniseed, and marvel at the historic If Castle. Your pass also includes a return boat ticket to the islands of If or Frioul, with the option to choose a Colorbüs Tour instead. Additionally, benefit from discounts on partner activities, guided tours, and tastings in selected shops. Collect your CityPass at the Tourist Office on La Canebière, open daily from 9 am to 6 pm, and remember that direct access to activities requires validation at each provider's ticket office. Enjoy Marseille at your own pace, unlocking a treasure trove of experiences with the Marseille CityPass.
Trains
With it's extensive rail network, Marseille seamlessly connects to various destinations, offering both residents and visitors an efficient and scenic mode of transportation. The city's main train station, Marseille Saint-Charles, serves as a bustling hub where traveler's can embark on journeys to regional and national destinations. The train system not only provides convenience for daily commuters but also facilitates exploration of Marseille's surrounding regions. From the historic charm of Old Port to the cultural richness of neighbourhoods like La Plaine, Marseille's train travel knits the diverse tapestry of the city together, offering a reliable and comfortable way to traverse its landscapes.
Airport
Marseille Provence Airport stands as a key gateway to the south of France, boasting a robust infrastructure and a multitude of connections. Situated approximately 27 km northwest of Marseille's city centre, this international airport offers a seamless travel experience with a wide array of flights connecting to numerous destinations globally. From major European cities to international hubs, Marseille Airport facilitates smooth travel for both domestic and international passengers.
Website: https://www.marseille-airport.com
How to get from Marseille Provence Airport to the city centre
There are several convenient ways to get from Marseille Provence Airport to the city centre:
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